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Ok, so it's a book. Reading about paintball may seem kind of novel (no pun intended!) but there is a lot of great information about this burgeoning sport contained in these 318 pages.

First of all, check out the size of the book. It is big! Just slightly smaller than an 81/2" X 11" standard letter size paper it is no regular paperback. The pages are thick, bright white stock with large, bold text that makes it very easy on the eyes. Tons of vivid color pictures adorn nearly every page in this tome. The only critical jab I'll give it here is maybe it could have come in a spiral or binder ring format rather than glue back. That way you could insert subsequent articles, as they become available. Make it like the sport itself - changing, growing, ever expanding. Hopefully something they will consider if there is a second edition.

The content of the book is well thought out, divided into 5 parts with lots of articles in each part. From it's humble beginning's in "Welcome to the Game" to modern playing techniques in "Tactics", just about all aspects of Paintball are covered here. In the "Guns" section there are some specific articles on cleaning and maintaining certain markers and air systems. It gives a good overall view of most of the more common guns but sadly ignores many others - including our beloved Spyder! (Okay, there is a picture of an SE on page 25.) In a book that claims to be complete they missed the target here. That's where my suggestion about the binder format makes sense. Make 'drop-in' additions on every marker out there. There are very detailed instructions showing you how to disassemble, clean and hopefully reassemble a 'Shocker'. This is great for the tiny population of 'Shocker' owners out there, but what about the rest of us? I'll stick my neck out and venture a guess that most players, most recreational players that is, own a blow-back style of marker. OK, so I can skip the 'Shocker' pages until the day I buy one. The "Drills" section gives lots of practical advice on warm-up exercises and running and shooting skills. In "Gear" you'll not only find out what is fashionable to wear to the paintball field but also lots of practical tips and safety equipment you will need.

It's shortcomings aside, it is the best book to give a first time or casual player more than a glimpse into the wonderful world of paintball. At $25.99 Canadian or $19.95 US it is a good bargain. Probably the cheapest paintball thing you'll buy this year!

(c) 2001 by Jeffrey "Sarge" Scott

This article reproduced at the SpyderZone under consent of the author, Jeffrey Scott. Duplication of any material in this article is prohibited except by permission of the author.

Click Here to Buy this Book at Barnes & Noble!

The Complete Guide to Paintball

The Crosman Red Dot sight can be found for around $20 CAD in most Canadian Tire stores. This site has a huge field of view, and a very bright red dot. It also features thumbscrews, which make adjustments to windage and elevation simple. Compared to the similar brass eagle sight, this sight wins hands down, featurewise, pricewise, and for durability.

One downfall of this sight (and many others) is how difficult it is to mount it on the marker. Mounting a sight on a marker usually requires at least a screwdriver, which is just another thing you don't want to carry with you to the field. To get around this issue, I visitted the local Home Depot, and came up with a great alternative!

First, the original screws need to be removed completely. Then, Drill the mounting holes to a larger size to accomodate the larger size of bolt (Depending on what size you got). The bolts can be fastened to the sight frame with some superglue or JB Weld. Use wing nuts on the other side, and it makes installation and removal a breeze!

Here's a view from the left, showing the easy-to-turn wingnuts. No more screwdrivers!

From the right, showing the bolt heads, as well as the easily adjustable windage and elevation dials! These things are great!

(c) 2001 by Dallas "Rebes" Beahm

This article reproduced at the SpyderZone under consent of the author, Dallas Beahm. Duplication of any material in this article is prohibited except by permission of the author.

This will allow more airflow to the striker to help recock the marker while running at lower operating pressures.

Remove your valve pin, cupseal, valve spring, valve spring guide, and LPC.

I then sanded down the sides of the valve pin (2 sides). This will allow more airflow to the striker.

This is the valve pin after I sanded it down (side view). Notice how much smaller in diameter it is from the side than it used to be. This is the finished product.

Mat "SuPrBuGmAn" Bull © 2001
Visit The Spyder-Club
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This article reproduced at the SpyderZone under consent of the author, Mat "SuPrBuGmAn" Bull. Duplication of any material in this article is prohibited except by permission of the author.

He acquired a Carter and played stock a lot,
and became a believer of one kill with one shot.
Santa's up to the challenge, he thought afterall,
and he'd take out that fat man with just one well placed ball.

The rules would be simple, he promised no scam.
Only ten rounds of paint and a single twelve gram.
He promised old Santa he'd give him his best,
but just as in last year, loser cleans up the mess.

Now, Johnny's a year older and wiser, you see.
He perched himself outside and up in a tree,
Johnny's view of the roof was just perfect, I'd say.
He chambered a paintball and awaited his prey.

Johnny waited and waited and got cold and stiff.
If Santa had snubbed him, he'd really be miffed.
He almost gave up and went in to his bed,
when the sound of those sleighbells rang true in his head.

When the sleigh did approach from the north as to land,
Johnny beamed deep inside, it was just as he'd planned.
He checked on his marker, he pulled out the plug.
He adjusted his facemask with one final tug.

Santa's sleigh did then land, and ol' Johnny took aim,
he snapped off two quick shots, and a third just the same
His shots had been accurate, his aim was so true,
His target just sat there,dripping in blue.

What Johnny marked was not Santa, you see,
and a ball outta nowhere felled John from his tree.
He gathered his senses and felt for the hit.
The ball had just bounced, but it bruised his left tit.

Santa's tricked poor old Johnny, not once but now twice
But John still had seven shots, when just one should suffice.
Now, and old elf in red couldn't hide, I'd surmise
But Johnny knew well Santa had one more surprise.

He sprinted for cover near his father's old shed,
when he felt that old paintball smack into his head.
His hand came back gooey, this lesson was hard.
Santa ambushed him this time from his own neighbor's yard.

In the wink of an eye the old man man was gone,
and left Johnny splattered, as the morning did dawn.
This year's duel with Santa has left this hope alive;
Maybe next year they'll tangle for three out of five.

A cruel trick Santa played on last Christmas day,
when he left poor Johnny a cheap old Stingray.
He worked through the summer as a grocery shelf stocker,
and he saved and he saved for a trick Autococker.

He awaited St. Nick in a tactical crouch,
his cammies matched perfect, his mom's brand new couch.
His red dot cast eerie a glow on the place,
as he waited for Santa to show his fat face.

When out on the roof there arose such a clatter,
that Johnny got ready for Santa to splatter.
He pulled down his Spectras and chambered a ball,
'cause Santa was here, and was fixing to call.

Now Santa's no dummy, he has intuition,
he took down the chimney his own ammunition.
He wore an Intruder and sported a Mag,
A case of RP tucked away in his bag.

That volley which followed was more than just fair,
the paintballs collided in the midst of the air.
Johnny dove for new cover, and Santa moved too,
the place would be wrecked before they were through.

As their hoppers went empty and their shooting did quit,
Johnny wiped off his goggles, he couldn't see $hit.
Old Santa was crouching on one ancient knee,
and stacking the presents under the tree.

Johnny was aiming to shoot at him some more,
when the sight in his sights made his jaw hit the floor.
Santa ignored him, in his eye was a glisten,
as he layed out for Johnny a nitrogen system.

He went up the chimney as quick as he'd come,
he left Johnny dripping paint, emotionally numb.
He'd ambushed old Santa and was now feeling mean,
but Santa laughed last, he left him to clean.

Johnny straightened the stockings and he wiped up the paint.
He cleaned until morning, he thought he might faint.
Santa's an awesome player, he thought in his head,
as he trudged to his bedroom and into his bed.

Don't wait up for Santa on this Christmas Eve,
that jolly old fat guy has a trick up his sleeve.
If you've revenge in your eye like Johnny delouse,
you'll only get spanked and end cleaning the house.

Burst Disc and Anti-Siphon Tube Installation by OtterSC

For many, CO2 is your choice of gas. And with that, comes with it's own dedicated problems with the tank. I will go over two things, the burst disc and installing an anti-siphon tube.

The basic operation of the pin valve operates like the Spyder valve. The pin is pushed in, opening the valve and releasing the gas. But, there is no striker that pushes that pin in. If you look at your ASA (where you screw your tank in), you should see a small piece of metal. This little piece of metal is the "striker". This pushes the pin in and releases the gas from the tank.

And, like the valve of the Spyder, if there is a foreign object inside the tank, this can keep the tank for closing all the way. In other words, a leak. You may be able to dislodge this object by opening and closing the tank valve. Careful not to scratch the valve. It is made of a soft metal. If it continues to leak, then you may need to either get a new tank or get a new valve.

I do suggest that you seek the help of a qualified airsmith at your local shop or a place that specializes in pressure tanks before doing anything to your tank. They should have the right equipment to do the work, such as taking the valve off of your tank. I must also stress that any work that you do while following the information below, any damages that occur is not my responsibility. I offer this article for information only.

Now, onto the good stuff!

Burst Disc Installation

Some of you CO2 users may have seen a tank "explode" and leak gas at a field. Or, maybe this has happened to you. This is not really a tank that is useless. All CO2 tanks has a built in safety measure that keeps the tank for really exploding and causing serious injury to you or the people around you. It is called a burst disc. CO2 tanks are rated to withstand a large amount of pressure. If the internal pressure greatly exceeds this, the burst disc will rupture. This allows the pressure to exit in 2 directions. If it released the gas in only one direction, it would be like a rocket.

Once this disc ruptures, all of the gas will escape. A new disc needs to be installed before the tank can be refilled. This is very simple to do. This disc is usually made of copper or brass that can be obtained at most paintball shops. This disc is installed beside the on/off valve or the pin valve. A short bolt on the side of the valve holds this in place.

To change the disc, get yourself one from the local shop. You will also need an adjustable wrench and a toothpick. Make sure that the burst disc is rated between 2,000 and 2,500psi. They are usually printed on one side what there rating is. Anything lower or higher, do not use. Remove the bolt that is on the side of the valve. There, you will see what is left of the disc. Take it out using a soft object. Toothpicks are sturdy enough to use. Yet, you will not scratch the inside with it.

When you have removed the disc, you should see the valve and a Teflon washer. If the washer is missing, check your remnants of the burst disc. It may be sticking to it. If it is missing, you may need to get a new one. Also, if it is damaged, get a new one. Replace the Teflon washer. Insert the new bust disc. Preferably, with the rating numbers facing you. Replace the bolt. Do not over tighten it. You’re done! Now get your tank filled.

Anti-Siphon Tube Installation

*Make sure that all of your gas is out of the tank before doing anything. If you recently depressurized the tank and the tank is cold, most likely the tank is not completely empty. To be certain, remove the bolt and burst disc and wait for several hours for the tank to warm. Again, I take no responsibility for any damages that may occur.

To install an anti-siphon, you will need the following: heat gun or torch, 7/8 or 15/16" or adjustable wrench, vice, rubber strip or old leather belt, blue Lock-Tite, and an anti-siphon tube (store bought or home made). You will also need to find out which is the top of the tank when it is screwed into your marker. Not all anti-siphon tanks have the same "up" location. Even from Spyder to Spyder. Screw in your tank all the way. Use either a piece of tape or marking pen, mark the "up" position of the tank and valve.

First, you need to take the pin valve off. There are two ways of doing this.

The first way is to place the tank upside down in a vise. Secure the vice around the brass part of the tank. Do protect the valve body with either rubber or leather. Heat the tank with either a hot gun or torch. Heat it for a few seconds. Long periods of heating can cause damage to the integrity to the tank. Use a strap wrench to turn the tank. Should screw right off. Be careful not to dent or scratch the tank. If you do, do not use it.

The other way is similar, but just the opposite. Place the tank end in the vice. Protect it with either leather or rubber. And do not crush the tank when you tighten the vice. Heat the valve end for a few seconds with either a hot gun or torch. Do not heat for a long time. Just want to loosen the Lock-Tite enough. Take a wrench, either a 7/8 of 15/16", and turn the valve. If you have a hex shaped valve, this should be easy. For those of you that do not, you may need to use the bolt for the burst disc as leverage. Careful not to damage this. You can also hit the wrench that is on the valve a few times to try and get it to turn.

If either way doesn't work, take it to a professional. Better to get it done right then to spend money to get a new tank. And, if the tank is scratched or crushed, do not use it. Throw it out and get a new one.

After you gave yourself a hernia getting the valve off, scrub the old sealant off the threads of the valve and inside of the tank with a wire brush. Also, check the o-ring on the valve. You may need to replace it. Make sure that there are no foreign objects inside the tank. This could clog the valve when you put it back together or enter your marker and cause damage.

You can buy an anti-siphon tube that will screw right into the valve. Or, make your own. If your going to make your own, you will need the following: a 1/8" pipe plug, brass tubing about 4-5" long and 3/16 to 1/4" outside diameter (I have used 3/16" mostly), a drill bit the same diameter as the tubing, and solder and soldering gun or torch. Also a file is good to have.

Drill in the center of the pipe plug with the drill bit. Make sure that the tubing fits. File a little around the tubing so that it will slide in the hole. Also, if you purchased a foot long piece of tube and cut it, file the sharp edges. Make sure to blow any filings from the tube, inside and out. The tube should slide in the just drilled pipe plug about 1/4". Solder in place. Be sure there is no obstruction and that the solder will hold.

Remember that mark you made on the valve and tank? Here is what it is for. Thread your pipe plug assembly into your pin valve. Make sure that it is tight. You will now want to carefully bend the tube towards that mark. The ideal bend is a nice radius, nothing sharp. If you do crimp it, you’re basically cutting off or even blocking the inside of the tube, which will hamper the gas travel. You also need to have the bend as close to the inside tank wall as you can. Blow out any foreign particles and secure the pipe plug with a small dab of< Lock-Tite.

Now you can reassemble your tank. Again, make sure there is no foreign object inside the tank. Secure the tank in the vice again with the rubber or leather. Be careful not to crush the tanks or scratch it. If you do, you will have to throw it away. Add some Lock-Tite and screw the valve into the tank. Tighten the valve securely, but not so tight. If you have a torque wrench, it is suggested between 35 and 40 foot pounds.

Allow the Lock-Tite to dry for at least 12 hours before filling it. CO2 has a tendency to keep the compound from drying. Mark the tank in someway that it is an anti-siphon tank. Your done!

If you have questions, feel free to email me.

Tim "OtterSC" Gochenauer
Visit The Spyder-Club

The above is property of Timothy "OtterSC" Gochenauer. I have no problem with you copying, printing, or linking this article, so long that nothing is changed in any way without my permission. I also ask that if you do use it, that you please give proper credit and let me know who has it. I plan on updating this article as the technology grows. I also must add that I am not responsible to any damage done to or from modifying your marker.

This article reproduced at the SpyderZone under consent of the author, Tim "OtterSC" Gochenauer.

Almost everyone will agree that the first upgrade on most paintball guns would be the barrel. It is arguably the single most important piece of equipment on your gun that will affect the velocity and trajectory of the paintball. We all want to hit who we are aiming at now don't we? There have been a few laboratory type studies conducted by manufacturers and independent groups alike. However, I believe that everyday usage will eventually lend knowledge and data in the field of paintball barrels. I will take a shot (pardon the pun) at giving the player a few answers to the many questions surrounding the mysteries of the paintball barrel.

1) What is wrong with the barrel that came with my gun?

Technically, there is probably nothing wrong with the stock barrel on most paintball guns. Ten years ago, or more, whatever barrel was on the gun when you bought it was the barrel you would use as there were not too many aftermarket barrels available. Most were made of brass, steel or aluminum alloys and were pretty good quality. With the increase in popularity of aftermarket barrels we have generally seen a decrease in the quality of the stock barrel. Many gun manufacturers know that many owners toss the stock barrel and buy an expensive aftermarket barrel within months of ownership. Therefore most manufacturers do not go to the trouble and expense of selling a real good quality barrel with the gun. The stock barrel will do exactly what it is supposed to do, guide the paintball to its eventual destination. How accurately it performs that task is another matter though.

2) What brand name of barrel should I get?

Now there is a loaded question! Brand name loyalty is no different in paintball than it is in any other industry. Consumers will swear that Brand X is the best paintball barrel ever made because of a lot of reasons. They may like the marketing and advertising of a certain barrel because they use pretty girls to promote the products. Peer pressure is another reason you may end up with a Brand X barrel in your possession. Three people at the field where you play have a particular barrel so you feel you should also. There are volumes of books on marketing strategies and I am not going any deeper than this. Buy whatever brand of barrel you like but do it for the right reasons. The most important consideration in barrel buying should be performance but it is sometimes second in line to other factors.

3) Is a longer barrel better than a short barrel?

An excellent article on barrel length by Allen Turner (see link at bottom of article) explains away a lot of the myth of long versus short barrels. Keep this in mind; paintballs are not lead bullets and CO2 is not gunpowder, so comparisons to 'real' guns are not fair. The longer a paintball stays in a barrel the more chance it has to loose velocity and accuracy. Remember that it is a soft gelatinous ball filled with liquid not a hard lead bullet. Studies have shown that barrels between 8 and 14 inches in length will generally be the most accurate. They need at least 8 inches of smooth and proper bore to reach their maximum velocity and the last few inches of travel help the paintball in the accuracy department. If the paintball stays in the barrel for more than 14 inches it starts to slow down and can bounce a bit too, causing it to exit the barrel in a wobble. I know you will hear many players swear on stacks of Bibles that their 20 inch 'sniper' barrel is super accurate. The reality of the physics of paintball says that simply is not true. Even if there were a glimmer of truth in their claim it would be very awkward to use a gun with such a long barrel. That's just not how the game is played.

4) What material makes a better barrel?

As mentioned earlier many barrels in the early days of paintball were made of brass simply because it is easy to mill. The fact that brass is soft made it a popular choice for barrel manufacturers and a lot of these early barrels were of excellent quality. But the softness of the brass also helped in its own demise. Aside from being relatively heavy, brass scratches and chips easily and this can cause the paintballs to go astray. Nowadays, most barrels are aluminum as it is cheaper, lighter and comparatively stronger than brass. However it also is soft and barrels made of aluminum must be handled and cleaned with care so as not to scratch the inner surface. Stainless steel is a favorite material of manufacturers as it is very durable and scratch resistant but can be heavy and expensive. You may have seen carbon fiber composite barrels on the market. I have not seen or used one of these types of barrels so the jury is still out on this one. I have even heard of titanium being used. Very light and strong but very expensive! What will we see next, Sterling Silver, or gold plated barrels? Aluminum and stainless steel are probably your best choices as they can be micro-honed to provide a very clean, smooth and slippery surface.

5) What is better - small, medium or large bored barrels?

This whole barrel bore and paintball match thing can be very confusing. Suffice to say it is important to match proper paintball size to barrel bore to get a good fit. Barrels come in a variety of sizes and there are some excellent charts available on the Internet. One such chart by "The Splatter Times" (see link at bottom of article) will show you what to expect from your stock barrel. Of course you will need to know what size the paintballs are so they will fit properly into the barrel without problems. Most organized fields you play on have a 'field paint only' policy which means the paint you shoot on their field must be purchased in their shop. To fit properly a paintball should sit in the barrel breach snuggly and not roll out the muzzle. If you can blow a paintball out the barrel like a blow-gun without turning your face blue in the attempt it is considered a good barrel to paint match. Most paintballs are only a few thousandths of an inch difference in diameter. This marketing strategy has yet to be satisfactorily explained to me. Aftermarket barrels also come in a variety of lengths and bore sizes. (see link at bottom of article)

6) How does porting and rifling affect a paintball barrel?

If you didn't know already, the porting I am referring to are the tiny holes drilled into the barrel. Some manufacturers place the porting in a spiral manner others straight and still others like Lapco position all the porting near the muzzle. I have heard claims that porting will help to spin the paintball as it travels down the barrel and this spinning will cause it to be more accurate. I have yet to see high-speed pictures to verify these claims, but it may be true. What porting does for sure is to allow the CO2 gas (or HPA / N2) to escape the barrel as it is pushing the paintball towards the muzzle. Allowing a bit of the gas to escape before it reaches the end of the muzzle makes for a quieter barrel. Little or no porting makes the barrel loud because the paintball pops as it exits. It is said that barrels of this type are good for low-pressure guns as the lack of porting helps in gas efficiency. Rifling has the same effect as porting in paintball barrels. The straight or twist rifling allows a bit of the gas to escape around the paintball as it travels down the barrel. I have read where Tom Kaye of Air Gun Designs, did some testing with spiral rifled barrels and through the aid of high-speed photography concluded it does not make the paintballs spin as many thought they might. So more porting makes a barrel quieter but less gas efficient, less porting has the opposite effect.

Check out these links for more information on barrels.
Long vs. Short barrels
Stock Barrel Sizes
Paintball Sizes
Aftermarket Barrel Sizes

(c) 2001 by Jeffrey Scott

This article reproduced at the SpyderZone under consent of the author, Jeffrey Scott ('Sarge'). Duplication of any material in this article is prohibited except by permission of the author.

Across North America, new fields are popping up monthly, making it easier and easier for players to find a local field. Unfortunately, many of these fields are poorly run with slack safety standards, making many of these fields an accident just waiting to happen. As a player, how can you decide what's safe and what's not? Which of those fields is owned by someone just trying to make a quick buck? I've put together a few pointers to watch for when you visit those fields.

1) Safety. Safety on and off the field is the most important thing any player should consider. How strict is the staff about mask and barrel plug rules? Can you honestly say you feel safe in the staging area without a mask on? How often is the staff checking marker velocities with a good quality, paintball chronograph? Any good paintball field will have strict safety rules, backed by stiff penalties if the rules are broken. Always remember that it could be you at the receiving end of a hot marker or a misfire in the staging area. Good safety standards will keep you safe.

2) Referees. Any rec field should have at least one ref for every ten players on the field, with a minimum of one ref, regardless of how small the group is. Even 4 friends playing 2 on 2 should still have a ref. On the other extreme, tournament games often have 2 flag station refs, 1 head ref, and at least 2 team refs (and that's just for 5 player teams!) If you are playing rec ball, and feel that the reffing is inadequate, you are probably not at a good field. If there is no ref at all, you are FAR from being at a good field!

3) Netting. Any good field has it. Netting is important to the safety aspect of a field. Only netting specifically designed for paintball should be used, and it should be tested regularly. Safety netting is important from two points of view. Most importantly, for the safety of any spectators or players behind the netting, but also for the players on the field. Let's say you are playing at a field without safety netting, and one of your stray shots hits a spectator in the eye. Who's to blame? Probably the field, but you can't say it wouldn't affect you (at least emotionally) as well. After all, you did fire the shot! Safety netting is important. If you are playing at a field that isn't well divided, you might want to consider complaining, or choose not to play there altogether.

4) Strict Rules and Policies. Have you ever played at a field where the owner's friends are at the field playing alongside the regular players? Have you ever noticed them bend the rules, and the owner or refs 'ignore' it because they are friends? This is one case where rules and policies should be adhered to more strictly. No field should be partial to any player. The safety of everyone else is at stake. As a field owner, do you want your new players to return again and again? Be fair, but be strict. Most players will respect this, even if a call is made against them. Policies regarding what infractions cause penalties or removal from the game, or from the field completely, should be well documented and followed. Allowances should not be made for friends. If someone is not following the rules, they often end up ruining the day for everyone else.

5) Prices. This is an area that all fields have some flexibility in, but they should still not take advantage of their position. Field fees and rental prices should be fair. Fill prices should not be outrageous, after all, you are buying their paint and supporting their business. Most fields will lower the price of their paint if you buy it in quantity, so get some friends together to buy a whole case. As long as fields are fair on prices, the word will spread, the field will prosper, and playing there will become more enjoyable.

6) Facilities. All paintball fields should have bathrooms nearby. Also, food and drink sales are nice, but not absolutely necessary. Cold water should be available for cleaning and drinking. Easy access by well-maintained roads is also good, but not absolutely required.

7) First Aid. Fields should have a well-stocked first aid kit, and if possible, someone should be present that can administer first aid to injured players.

8) Pro Shop. Pro shops aren't absolutely necessary on a field, but they can make the day much better if an experienced airsmith is available to help players with technical problems.

9) If a field provides CO2 and air fills, any person operating the equipment should be trained to do so. Unsafe filling practices can cause dangerous accidents. CO2 tanks should always be filled on a scale.

(c) 2001 by Dallas "Rebes" Beahm

This article reproduced at the SpyderZone under consent of the author, Dallas Beahm. Duplication of any material in this article is prohibited except by permission of the author.