You read the title, I think this FAQ will cover nearly EVERY possible cause and solution for a leaking or burping spyder (along with most stacked tube blowbacks)...
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Burping |
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Leaking |
If your gun is burping look here
BURPING: when a paintball marker cycles without the sear latching the striker/hammer (burping AKA: going full auto, farting, etc...). Burping is cause by air restrictions, excess friction, blockage, air leakage, improperly assembled markers, inadequate cocking pressure, inadequate backpressure, improper lubrication, and worn/broken parts.
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Check your power source, make sure you have adequate cocking pressure. If you think you have a power source problem, go fill your tank up and try to shoot your marker with a full CO2 or HPA tank... |
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Check all your O-rings. This includes valve o-rings, vertical adapter o-rings, bolt O-rings, low pressure chamber/valve plug o-ring and the striker O-ring. (See Pictures 1 & 2) Replace any that are worn or broken, keep in mind that some O-ring damage is too small to notice with the eye (although it still may affect the gun as if there was no O-ring there at all). |
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Check your cup seal. Replace it if its damaged (sometimes cup seal damage is not noticeable to the human eye). (See Picture 1) |
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Make sure your valve body screw is flush with the receiver. It may cause a flow restriction if screwed in farther. (See Picture 1) |
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Make sure you have oiled your gun and make sure to use paintball specific oil. Other oils may damage the O-ring even dissolve them. Different oils have different viscosities and temperature tolerances also, its a good idea to use paintball lube that won't gum up your marker in cold/hot weather. Oil all O-rings, bolt, striker, and put a few drops in the ASA (then shoot a few times without a barrel). |
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Check for any kind of valve damage. Any damage whatsoever can cause re-cocking and/or leaking problems. The valve is made of a very delicate metal that scratches easily. If the valve is damaged replace it. To avoid valve damage, do not remove the valve unless you are replacing it or upgrading it to another higher flowing turbo valve. (See Picture 1) |
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Check the valve pin for damage. Make sure the pin is not bent and seats properly on the cup seal and contacts the striker/hammer pin. (See Picture 1) |
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Check the sear for excess wear. If it is worn, it will not catch the striker thus cause burping. If damaged, replace it. (See Picture 4 ) |
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Check the striker for excess wear. If it is worn or rounded, it will not catch the sear thus cause burping. If damaged, replace it. (See Picture 2) |
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Shoot your gun with paint. Some guns just decide they don't want to re-cock without paint. The paint gives the gun just a little extra backpressure to re-cock |
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Check for any flow restrictions. Make sure there is nothing blocking the gas lines to your valve. Take out any gunk and the stupid factory filters which Kingman has thrown into the lines. These will all cause air restrictions which can cause inadequate re-cocking pressure. |
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If you are regulating your gun, make sure the regulator is set to allow adequate pressure for the gun to re-cock. If you think this is the case, simply turn up your regulator. |
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Look in the inside bore of the receiver. Where all your internals go. Check for any deep gashes, scratches or burs that may cause leaking or excess friction, both which may cause burping. (See Picture 1 & 3) |
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Check the valve chamber plug, if you have an older standard spyder, make sure the plug is flush with the receiver (body). |
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Check your Trigger Frame to be sure it is secured to the receiver. If it is loose, the sear and striker may not engage causing burping. (See Picture 3 & 4) |
If your gun is leaking, look here:
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Check your power source. If there is not adequate pressure to seal the valve, air will escape through the barrel. Make sure you have a full tank. |
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Check all your O-rings. This includes valve O-rings, vertical adapter O-rings, bolt O-rings, low pressure chamber/valve plug O-ring and the striker O-ring. (See Pictures 1 & 2) Replace any that are worn or broken, keep in mind that some O-ring damage is too small to notice with the eye (although it still may affect the gun as if there was no O-ring there at all). |
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Check your cup seal. Replace it if its damaged (sometimes cup seal damage is not noticeable to the human eye). (See Picture 1) |
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Make sure you have oiled your gun and make sure to use paintball specific oil. Other oils may damage the O-ring even dissolve them. Different oils have different viscosities and temperature tolerances also, its a good idea to use paintball lube that won't gum up your marker in cold/hot weather. Oil all O-rings, bolt, striker, and put a few drops in the ASA (then shoot a few times without a barrel). |
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Check for any kind of valve damage. Any damage whatsoever can cause re-cocking and/or leaking problems. The valve is made of a very delicate metal that scratches easily. If the valve is damaged replace it. To avoid valve damage, do not remove the valve unless you are replacing it or upgrading it to another higher flowing turbo valve. (See Picture 1) |
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Check the valve pin for damage. Make sure the pin is not bent and seats properly on the cup seal and contacts the striker/hammer pin. (See Picture 1) |
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If you are regulating your gun, make sure the regulator is set to allow adequate pressure for the gun to re-cock and adequate pressure to seal the valve. If you think this is the case, simply turn up your regulator. |
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Look in the inside bore of the receiver. Where all your internals go. Check for any deep gashes, scratches or burs that may cause leaking or excess friction, both which may cause burping. (See Picture1 & 3) |
Mat "SuPrBuGmAn" Bull © 2001
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This article reproduced at the SpyderZone under consent of the author, Mat "SuPrBuGmAn" Bull. Duplication of any material in this article is prohibited except by permission of the author.
